Sleepless in Conakry

Not much sleep our first night in Africa. Arrived at our new home, tired but glad to have finally arrived to what would be our home for at least the next two years. Apartment had been cleaned from what I remember back in May. Left bags in one room, and walked around the apartment in an exhausted daze. Humungous spider (never saw one so big in all my life...we’re talking big spider here, not your regular daddy long legs) waiting for us in one of the bedrooms. First safari kill. No drinking water, no toilet paper, no soap. Security guard from downstairs came up and we asked him if there would be a place where we could buy water and soap at this time of night. He brought us to a corner store, which turned out to be a corner hole in the wall. No lights, could not really tell what we were buying, the whole store was illuminated by one candle. Bought one bottle of water and a bar of soap, forget the toilet paper, they have no idea what we’re talking about, and I don’t have the patience or a lesson plan on wiping ass. Paid 8000 francs...about $1.00. Gave money to girl, noticed she did not have any fingers.

Returned to apartment...no toilet paper, had to improvise. Will not go into detail other than say that the experiment entailed a sock and plenty of water. Went to sleep around 10 PM, both woke up at 2AM. Wished Madeleine Happy Birthday, gave her a copy of Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert and a box of Belgium chocolates. Talked about the inadequacies of our new home and how we should be looking for something a bit bigger. Went back to sleep and slept till 7AM.

Madeleine woke me up because I had promised her a breakfast at a nearby (walking distance) expat hotel that would probably serve a good breakfast. Walked to hotel, found at it had been abandoned, like so many other places here in Conakry. Walked around a while, then phoned Djania to let her know that we were ready to start the day. Rest of the day spent shopping for necessities to set up house and some food (and toilet paper) to get us through the next few days. Almost got arrested taking pictures of Madeleine buying fruit...got out of that one quickly. Showed pictures to the military guy (they’re all over the place here...country still under martial law since the military coup 18 months ago) to prove to him that I was just taking pictures of my wife buying fruit...proceed with showing pictures of my mother in law sitting in our sunroom in our house in Vancouver...the young soldier did not seem amused...jerk.