Hua Hin

We decided to go off to Hua Hin to escape the chaotic mess that is Bangkok. Not that we don’t like Bangkok, but sometimes we struggle with it’s heat and intensity and just want a break from it’s blocked traffic, it’s crowded sidewalks, and it’s pervasive siamese aromas emanating from the many street food stalls. This last one is especially difficult to take in the early mornings on our short 7am jaunt to school and when we obligatorily have to pass through the neighbourhood food street. This mere 20-metre nostril-titillating passageway through a jumbled heap of street food vendors is nothing less than an aggravated assault on our sense of smell, especially at 7am in the morning. Not only does it bring about nausea as it invades our narial passages, it also impregnates every pore of your body with the foul and almost acrid odour of chicken being fried in 150-year-old palm cooking oil. Admittedly, perhaps our repugnance to this small stretch of street is not solely due to the chicken being fried, but rather the combination of it being so early in the morning and the recycled 150-year-old palm oil in which the poor chicken boils. Although the walk itself is a short 15-minute stroll, you arrive at school perfumed with a somewhat offensive odour resulting from much perspiration combined with a touch of the distinctive fragrance of eau de poulet frit.    

So off we were on another weekend junket from Bangkok, destined for what we hoped would be a quiet and idyllic place, escaping from the world by vegging out in front of the ocean, and also taking a short respite from the fried chicken smell of Bangkok. We were looking forward to a quiet ocean side weekend of relaxation, as well as an apropos place where we could celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary (previous blog entry).

Our destination was Thailand’s original beach purlieu of Hua Hin, a couple of hours drive from Bangkok.   Hua Hin started out as a small fishing village but in the 1920s it became Royal getaways when King Rama VI and Rama VII built their summer residences in the area – then the Thai nobility flocked to the coastal town in droves, making Hua Hin the place to be.  Hua Hin actually means ‘stone head’ which is illustrated perfectly by the rocks that emerge during low tide on the public beach. 

One of Hua Hin's beaches on our early morning walk.

Hua Hin has a lot to offer, but not forgetting that the main purpose of our trip was some ardent relaxation interspersed with the occasional walk on the beach, we had no set itinerary and just set off like two rudderless ships on the open ocean. This had not been our first time in Hua Hin, so we knew exactly where to go to find what we were looking for, and that happened to be this quaint boutique ocean side place that we had stayed at on one of our earlier trips down the coast.

You cannot come to Hua Hin and not visit its famous Night Markets. Although I am far from being a fan of touristy trinkets and t-shirts, I find Night Markets fun, especially in Thailand where you are not subject to the ‘hard sell’ like you were in Africa. Here in Thailand, no means no, and although bartering is always part of the market game, it remains a game and you are never shamed into awkward guiltiness brought on by the inevitable ‘my-17-children-will-surely-starve-to-death-if-you-don’t-buy-this-trinket-from-me’ spiel.   

There are two major Night Markets in Hua Hin, and they are both interesting. One of them, the Cicada Market, was a short 10-minute walk from our weekend nest, and happens to be our favourite of the two.  Cicada Market reflects Hua Hin’s laid-back yet vibrant personality. It’s not just another outdoor night market but a place where you can chill out, appreciate art and join in the fun. It is also a great place to stroll and people watch, which is and has always been our thing and very much in line with the other activities on our weekend slothlike program.  It’s alive with noise, colour, and life (yes like Bangkok, but cleaner, fresher, and cooler). Part of Cicada Market’s philosophy is to help promote Hua Hin as an art destination, and therefore the market provides a platform for local art groups to express their talents and creativity.  The majority of the outdoor space is dedicated to clothes, decorative items, home wear, and handmade accessories, but the art section is also impressive with local artist who wear ‘freedom of expression’ on their sleeves (aren’t these guys just the coolest people on the face of the planet?) selling their paintings, sculptures, and sketches.  Cicada Market is all about art, handmade crafts and good times.  And this is where God spoke to me.

Next entry : Words of wisdom from above?