Phallic Frenzy

So there I was, standing in my bathing suit, deep inside a cave, surrounded by a multitudinous array of wooden penises, trying to figure out what the heck I had gotten myself into. Let me explain.

Yes, that is what you think it is on my right.

I had decided to take a break from my deep focused beached whale meditation to stretch my legs and go strolling along Phra Nang beach on Railey Island. Madeleine was still doing her dead wood in the water thing, in a less than semi cognitive limbo, enjoying life bobbing about in the sea. Off I went, solo and reflective, occasionally stopping and admiring the rock formations jutting out of the water. Then, lo and behold, what do I stumble upon at the end of the beach? Not one, but two caves, no ordinary caves, but caves filled to the hilt with wooden penises. That's right, big, small, hand carved, some painted, some decorated with ribbon and fabric, phalluses, a whole slew of them. In the bigger cave, the penises were scattered around what looked like a spirit house alter covered with the typical offerings that you see in spirit houses all over Thailand: candles, incense sticks, flowers, pop bottles, bling bling jewels, and small tokens of elephants and the like, you know the kind of stuff you find at your neighbourhood dollar store back home.
Nothing unusual really, except for the penises. I was not alone, there were a few foreigners around that appeared as bewildered as I was. I noticed a plaque below the offerings and approached it a bit hesitantly, not knowing if I was infringing on sacred ground.  On the plaque was inscribed "It is believed by the villagers that the spirit of Phranang (Princess Goddess) resides in the cave. Fishermen, before going out, would pledge Phranang for good luck. With their wishes fulfilled, votive offerings would be made at the shrine. Common gifts are flowers and incense sticks, but usually, the spirits of goddess shall be offered special gifts, the lingams. However, this has nothing to do with the Thai people's religions, neither Buddhism nor Islam, that the belief of lingam and holy womb, shall create fertility and prosperity to the whole earth and mankind."

Madeleine and her new
friend. (Madeleine is the
one on the left with
the blue bathing suit.)

I figured my fellow foreigners were non English or non Thai speakers because they still appeared totally clueless after reading the explanation adumbrated by the writing on the plague. Amused, but clueless. 

I returned to find Madeleine still very much working at perfecting her dead wood in the water trance. She came out of her cataleptic state just long enough to ask me where I had been. Pointing to the cave, I told her that I had been hanging with the penises in the cave, over there. She sank, coughing up water. I explained what I had discovered and, unsurprisingly, she insisted on visiting the penises herself. We walked towards the caves and joined the mystified crowd of phallus worshipers. Madeleine was impressed. She had never seen so many at one time in one place.  Bewildered and mystified foreigners that is.

So why are there a couple of caves full of penises in Railay? Good question? Naturally, I am a curious person, and let's face it, a cave stocked with wooden penises would pique anyone's inquisitiveness. Let me tell you, they sure did pique the interest of those two giggling ah-qu'ils-sont-mignons-les-petits-pénis French girls! In any case, I wanted to know what was behind this phallic frenzy? Upon returning to the hotel that late afternoon, I bee lined straight for my computer and went to my reliable friend Google for enlightenment. Now what search words could I use without causing all of Google to be shut down by the fine people from the Thai National Anti-Vice Office, who would probably be alerted of a pervert on the loose somewhere on the Andaman Coast trying to get his/her rocks off looking at neanderthalic genitalia? I punched in PENIS and CAVE and voilà, this is what I got.

Offerings to the Phra Nang princess

It all started with a mystical sea princess, the Phra Nang Princess, a female spirit symbolizing fertility. She resides in a cave on the east side of Railay Beach beneath incredible stalactite overhangs that protrude over the sea. Legend holds that Thai fishermen would bring their wishes and prayers to the sea princess before embarking on their fishing trips. She would in turn protect them from danger and give them great success at sea with a hefty catch. If their wishes were granted, the fishermen would return to the Phra Nang Princess with an offering. However, this princess was not only important to fishermen but also to people suffering from infertility troubles. This is where all the phallic sculptures come into play. 

Anyone bringing carvings of phalluses as a gift to the princess of the cave will be granted fertility and prosperity. The phallic sculpture is known as a “lingam” in Thailand. Lingams are generally carved from wood. Locals believe the lingam can create fertility and prosperity for the entire world if left at the cave of the Phra Nang Princess. Cool.